Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select list of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
